We could only find SER 2-2-2-4 (SE cable type SER with XHHW-2).Wire ToolThe most essential tool for doing anything electricity-releated.
The SE cable is old and worn to the point nothing can be read on it it is an older SEU style cable (2 hots and a return). Is that correct? Any votes for one or the other?Īny difference in which connector should be used for the messenger wire versus the hots? I read in another place a split-bolt actually meets NEC code. I read in 1 place that the power company used to use parallel groove clamps for this and wrap with tape and that is what appears to be on the PoCo side of the main panel. We can use a split bolt or parallel groove clamp to connect the SE cable to the triplex (no barrel crimp or H-tap available). We have to shorten that to the new subpanel location. We have aerial triplex (aluminum) running from the main panel to the 100A subpanel. I realize nothing is up to code-the subpanel is wired without a ground, and grounds and neutral are tied into a single bus bar. The whole wiring will be updated within the year, but we need to move that panel so we have enough power to work. Moved to an old 1946 farmhouse and my husband and I will be doing the renovations ourselves.įirst project is moving a subpanel so we can demo/rebuild the garage. Newbie here-new to this forum and to DIYing. You'd probably be better off ditching the used batteries and buying a cheap car battery (deep cycle marine type would be best, but more $$$). Typical LEDs use so little juice, I would think one good battery could probably run them all night unless you have a real disco setup in there.
You can't use that charger if you wire the batteries to supply 12V to the LEDs. This gives you just over 13VDC (fully charged) and they will supply power for 3 times as long as a single battery.Īll this assumes the batteries are completely equal in capacity and condition. The other way is parallel where the +'s are all connected together as are the -'s. The batteries won't last any longer than the capacity of each individual battery. That would give you over 36VDC if your batteries were all fully charged and functional (which apparently they aren't based on your voltage readings.) Actually it would be about 40V.
#Use steam controller wired without draining batteries series#
I'm pretty new to battery electrical stuff so any help is much appreciated! Thanks!īatteries can be wired 2 ways, series or parallel. Is that ok for charging these batteries or do I need a 12V charger? Is there a way I could wire all 3 batteries to put out a total of 12V, but have triple the battery life?Īnd lastly, the charger puts out about 43V. Can someone help me interpret this?Īlso, I'm looking to wire these to some LED strip lights that are 12V specified. After measuring each battery individually, the two on the edges read ~9.5 and the one in the middle read ~11.25.
The batteries right now are connected in series and the voltage measurement from one end all the way to the other reads around 30V or so after being charged overnight (they were completely dead before). I'd like to be able to use the lights while the vehicle isn't attached, that's why I went with the battery/solar panel.īut basically I have 3 12V 7ah batteries I took out of an old go kart.
I'm looking to add lighting to an enclosed trailer of mine and I'll be using a solar panel on top connected to a battery inside.
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